Two years ago, I accidentally went around the world. This year I planned the trip as if it was just a normal way to escape winter in my hometown of Portland, Oregon. I’d always wanted to visit Scandinavia to experience a culture that valued quality of living; things like public transportation, free education, universal healthcare, long vacations, and secure retirement. All of this to be had without destroying the environment for the hopes of acquiring low cost goods. Travel is always good in that it exposes one to new ideas for living.
Since the prospect of traveling to northern Europe in midwinter was not very appealing, I decided to begin my trip in SE Asia, where I could warm my core temperature for a couple months before heading into the arctic north. There were a couple countries I had missed on my previous trip to SE Asia, a mistake I decided to rectify this time.
With SE Asia as my start point and northern Europe as my endpoint, I once again found myself heading around the globe, this time in the reverse direction. Because I would be covering a lot of territory, I tried to minimize my flying time as the train gives you the best view of the countryside while traveling through a place. Below is a continuation of my personal impressions of the countries of the world.
Laos
Laos is like traveling back in time before the industrial revolution. People live simply and do everything by hand or using livestock. It’s a place where time slows to a crawl which is perfect for enjoying a slow boat tour or inner tubing down the Mekong river that runs the length of the country. It is an outdoor paradise though getting from one place to the other is not easy since there are no highways or trains. That will change, in ways I fear, in two years when China completes a high speed railway through the country to Bangkok. Getting assistance for a tourist, or even someone who speaks English is difficult, but with the easy going pace, you will soon find yourself as inclined to do nothing as the Lao people.
Cambodia
I had low expectations for this country that was not long ago immersed in a civil war aimed at eliminating the country’s educated population, but Cambodians have gotten beyond that and are very friendly and helpful. English is regularly spoken here, and the US dollar is the de facto currency. While Angkor Wat is obscenely priced and overwhelmed by tourists, I found the cities of Siem Reap and Phnom Penh delightful places to spend time and well stocked with restaurants and cafes. The islands off the coast are indeed the Thailand of years past: uncrowded and peaceful.
Greece
From the crater of Santorini to the cliff top monasteries of Meteora, Greece boasts magnificent landscapes from end to end. The food is delicious, and it was a relief to get fresh vegetables again after months of noodles and rice. The only disappointment for me was the Greek people who, while I am sure are friendly once you get to know them, presented as cold and indifferent in most of the places I visited. Greece also seems to be the last country in the world where people still smoke indoors in restaurants, bars, and trains.
Bulgaria
Unlike Greece, the Bulgarians were outwardly friendly and always returned a smile. Though they didn’t speak English, they were always helpful. The landscape was varied, and what stood out is how the Bulgarians love their mountains. You could take the train to the ski resort or trekking, and see towns built up and down along mountains and cliffs. The food was exceptional, and the vegetable topped shepherd’s salad was unexpected in a land of simmered meats.
Romania
Confident, without a need to prove itself, Romania was a delightful visit. Fairytale castles nestle inside dramatic mountains with endless hiking possibilities. The food is hearty, including an appetizer in Brasov that consisted of deep fried pork belly and raw red onion cubes. The language spoken here is the closest derivative of Latin, and my limited Italian was enough for me to understand signs and people.
Hungary
I really enjoyed these down to earth people. The cities are made for and used by the locals. I enjoyed learning the history and seeing the sites of Budapest. It was nice to feel like I was enjoying the country with Hungarians and not just foreign tourists. Restaurants are reasonably priced and transportation is exceptional. This is a country that hosts well and functions well.
Austria
Austria is that sibling that you can’t stand because your parents are always asking you why you can’t be more like them. For me it was too perfect, and I quickly became bored. To be sure it hosts some of the best art, music, and architecture of the world, but I find I like something a little more rough around the edges.
Czech Republic
Like Austria, things here are pretty well dialed in. I spent many years hearing I should go there before it was too late. I believe I waited too long. It is a modern Disneyland. Tourists move in hordes to see the unique architecture that makes up Prague, and restaurants are packed. I suspect there are more tourists on the streets than there are locals. It possesses a unique beauty worth seeing, but you have missed the boat on catching it before it’s too late!
Poland
I asked a Polish man to describe what it means to be Polish, and in one word, he answered “suffering”. True, this country has been subject to territorial aggression throughout its history. When I grew up, the Polish were the butt of many jokes, but in today’s Poland, I see the opposite. The cities have been brought back to their original beauty since the last world war, which is to say they are among the most picturesque of the world. The people are kind and the food delicious. It is a shame that so many Poles have to leave this country for work. I would happily replace them for a long visit to Poland.
Sweden
Fit, active, healthy. No one here is suffering from a thyroid condition. At near freezing temperatures people commute around the city by bicycle and make use of their extensive public transit system. At the same time, the highways are plied by Volvos, BMWs, Audis. It is a rich country, with the feel of being perfectly sculpted, not unlike Austria. Prices are high but no more so than any large American city. Saunas and Fikas are a part of daily life here, the latter being a gathering of people for late afternoon snacks. The people seemed kind and understanding, yet reserved. Overall, I got an impression of practical but not passionate.
Finland
A people that understand quality. Quality of life. Quality of environment. Good design seems part of what it means to be Finnish. Nowhere did I see something designed without thought, and everything is designed to work together. Trains, airports, highways, even bikeways. Wherever you see a road, there is always an adjacent sidewalk/bike path. In addition to the active lifestyle, the Finnish celebrate their health with the oldest sauna culture in the world. In a country of only 5 million people, there are 3 million saunas. Finns are able to simultaneously embrace the importance of the individual and invest in the bigger community. This is witnessed in their healthy communities with very little poverty and disenfranchisement. It is a nation that is committed to including everyone in their success.
Norway
Like California, Norway took the best of its surroundings and left the rest for its neighbors. If you draw an oval around all the mountains of Scandinavia, that defines the Norway’s border. I cruised the entire coast for 6 days and every morning woke to something more beautiful than the previous day. It is a country of mountains and fjords with cities that offer mountaineering opportunities beginning from the city center. It is also the most expensive country I visited, a place where I paid $22 USD for a burrito! It’s become a new favorite, and I hope to someday find an excuse to spend a summer there.
Denmark
After having traveled the other Scandinavian countries, I didn’t find Denmark to be particularly different. Quaint waterfront buildings built along urban canals and not so expensive as some of its northern sisters. Being connected to mainland Europe left it with a less exotic feel, but I really enjoyed the hippie village in the center of Copenhagen.
Belgium
Belgium was an unintentional and unexpected surprise. I ended up here only because it was the cheapest way to fly from Denmark to The Netherlands. After a couple overwhelming hours in Brussels, I found myself happily relaxing in the easy going town of Bruges. Belgians really know how to live life: slowly and with good food and drink. Being a flat country, it was a great place to rent a bike. Roads are small and dotted with quaint little towns that make it easy to relax like a local.
The Netherlands
With ultra modern architecture, The Netherlands is a place where you find yourself constantly looking up. The people are festive and always looking for a good reason to throw a party. This is the most bike centric country I’ve ever visited with people of all ages and social classes dominating the city streets and three story bike parking garages.
Iceland
Having come from Oregon, a state completely sculpted by volcanoes, I didn’t find the landscape of Iceland to be particularly unique, but the black sand beaches and glaciers on the south part of the island provided a once in a lifetime experience. It is an odd treeless landscape with grand waterfalls seeming to drop out of nowhere. Be sure to save your money, though, as the place is prohibitively expensive. With a population of just over three hundred thousand, this place is ideal for those who don’t like crowds.
I found this to be an even more memorable experience than my first trip, perhaps because of the diversity I experienced. Struggling countries will always be my favorite because I can relate to people who are grateful for each day to be alive. It was nice to balance this trip out with more progressive societies who have figured out how to grow technologically while preserving quality of life. Still, while I have great pictures and memories of northern Europe, you are most likely to find me swinging on a hammock alongside the beaches of the south Pacific.