Bangkok is a delightfully bi-polar city. There are fully automated air conditioned sky trains to whisk you from the airport into town or past the giant modern shopping centers, and just around the corner from the centers you’ll find corrugated tin shacks built over sewage channels. It’s not for everyone, but I love that these two lifestyles can coexist on top of each other without conflict.

Getting Around Bangkok

Bangkok has several modes of transportation. I recommend you check out this guide to learn all of your options. While taxis and tuk tuks are readily available everywhere, I recommend using trains, ferries, and motorcycles due to Bangkok’s horrendous traffic.

Bangkok has at least three rapid transit systems, each run by a separate entity which makes it inconvenient for passengers who cannot get to their destination using only one of the systems. Not only do you have to change stations to transfer to another line, but you have to buy a separate ticket for each of the systems. Unfortunately, no one has come up with a transit pass that can be shared across the systems.

That hassle aside, the trains are modern and air conditioned, and the price you pay makes it worth it to avoid the street traffic. Another way to avoid traffic is the motorcycle taxi. Though they are more dangerous, have no AC or room for luggage, they are by far the fastest way to get around Bangkok as they can zip down alleys and over sidewalks. From personal experience, I can tell you this is one of the best amusement rides I’ve experienced.

The ferry system is also an excellent way to get around Bangkok and, what most people don’t consider, it’s the cheapest. The primary line follows the Chao Phraya river and stops at most of the top tourist sites. Additionally there are also smaller ferry lines following the canals that go right through the city. These are more difficult to locate, but once you learn the system, you can use them to connect parts of the city that previously seemed lacking in public transit options.

Bangkok Highlights and Lowlights

I would be irresponsible if I didn’t tell you to visit the Grand Palace, Wat Pho, and Wat Arun, but every guidebook you use will tell you about these places. The downside of doing what everyone is told to do is that everyone will be there, especially at the Grand Palace. The only way I can think to reduce your exposure to the hordes is to go about an hour before closing time when the temperature is the hottest and most people have given into their temple exhaustion for the day. Going at the end of the day also leaves you in a good position to take pictures of Wat Arun at sunset.

Bangkok is huge, on the scale of New York City, so when you’re looking at the map and thinking about visiting two temples that appear next to each other, it could in fact be a 20 minute walk (in stifling heat) between the two. Trying to do the three temples in one day is very aggressive. If you’re determined, start with Grand Palace when it opens, take a break for lunch (near the ferry pier), then visit Wat Pho after lunch, take an afternoon break at the ferry pier, and finish with Wat Arun. I like this option because you can then catch the ferry to Prannok, where there are some cool markets, and you can eat on the river looking across at the Grand temple.

If you like to avoid crowds and want to see a couple more unusual temples, I recommend going to Loha Prasat and Wat Saket The two temples are across the street from each other and in this case, it’s actually a short walk from one to the other. The first is a magnificent black and white stack of squares getting progressively smaller as you climb. The second has a spiral path that climbs a hill overlooking the city. The base has some odd details like a mist area to cool you off before you begin the trek to the top. This is another one of those temples that seems like it is run by new age Buddhists.

You can get to either of these temples by taking the ferry to the hidden ferry landing at Phanfa bridge. These ferries are always exciting given the narrow channels they speed down, especially when you pass a ferry going the opposite direction which gives the experience of being in a wave pool as water is thrown back and forth between the walls of the channel as if it was playing ping pong with the boats.

You can ride the ferry to Hua Chang, where you can visit the Jim Thompson house, which I find worth the visit and tour. Just a few blocks further is the Skytrain which can transport you around Bangkok. The most simple connection between the Skytrain and the ferry is Asok pier, which is only a block from the MRT station and neighborhood.

On the West side of the Chaya Phraya river, in addition to Wat Arun and the adjoining markets, you’ll find Wat Intharam and Wat Chantharam, two temples on a similar scale with the Grand Palace, only with no people! You’ll even find a giant reclining Buddha.

There are also two rail lines that begin from the west side of Bangkok. The better known is the Thonburi train which takes you on a day trip to the famous Death railway. The other is the Wongwian Yai Railway Station which goes from Bangkok to Samut Sakhon on the Gulf of Thailand. I discovered both of these accidentally as I was exploring the less touristy neighborhoods of Bangkok.

The floating markets are on the west side as well. You can get there by hiring a long tail for boat. The other option is to take a train or bus to the neighborhood and walk to the floating markets.

Nightlife

Bangkok is well known for its nightlife, and I don’t really have much to offer that isn’t covered in most guides. Khao San Road remains a huge destination for westerners, and is a good place to buy locally made foods and goods or sit and people watch from many of the restaurants catering to westerners.

Before you head to the market, check out the neighborhood just north of Khao San Road. Once you cross the bridge, you’ll find a neighborhood that is home to many westerners. As a result, you can get good coffee, drinks, and western food if you need a break from Thai street food.

One of my favorite areas to go at night is Siam Square, a giant shopping center with elevated walkways to take you from one mall to the next. You’ll find plenty of Thais taking in the lights of the giant projection screens or enjoying events that are set up between the malls. Similar experiences can be had at the Asok and Sala Daeng Skytrain stops.

Finally, of course, there are the red light districts that are worth at least a one time visit if you’ve never seen openly marketed prostitution. The two main areas are Soi Cowboy and Patpong. In addition to food and hawker stalls, you’ll find girly bars with young Thai girls pleading with you to come to their club where they get a commission on drinks you buy both yourself and them. You won’t need to buy more than a couple drinks before the girl offers you something she can make a much greater commission on.