The first time I came to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand, everyone spoke of Pai. “You have to go to Pai” was the mantra uttered by every hippie guy and girl in oversized flowing elephant print pants. They said it in a dreamy way that implied nirvana or at the very least a narcotic experience.

This collective insistence that I try something has caused me to do just the opposite since I was a child. I’m not sure what genetic defect I inherited that causes me to act like a salmon whenever I see all the fish headed downstream, but I’ve learned to live with it, and it’s the reason I imagine most of you read these stories. I defiantly turned my back on Pai and headed south to Ayutthaya, a place no one was talking about going.

As I planned my second trip to northern Thailand, I decided I would explore all of the natural beauty that people spoke of two years ago. I found a driving route called the Mae Hong Son loop which promised waterfalls, hilltop temples, and over 1,864 turns through majestic mountains.

With the numerous outdoor activities available, it turns out I could have spent weeks doing the loop, but as it was I only had 3 days. It was too fast a trip to justify all of that driving, and I ended up wishing I’d spent the entire time in Pai.

True, it is filled with western tourists looking to get off the beaten path only to have created a well trodden hippie oasis. The town has embraced westerners and realized that we like variety. It stands out from other Thai towns in that you can get any food you want: burritos, pizzas, burgers, and of course all of the Thai favorites.

The streets are narrow which lends it to walking, and stores are filled with anything you could need, however, there is not much you could need given the pleasant climate and relaxed atmosphere of the village. Every night, the main street is closed to vehicles, and vendors fill the street selling goods that are not the same as I see in most night markets.

I think the mix of western and Thai in Pai creates a healthy variety of offerings. As in my home town of Portland, Oregon, you see the fusion of different ethnic cuisine: Locals making a Thai version of lasagne or a taco filled with Thai stir fried vegetables. The food scene is one of the reasons I would recommend most for visiting Pai.

With a full belly, you can head out to enjoy many of the nearby waterfalls or hot springs. There is even a miniature valley that people refer to as the Pai grand canyon. Though, it’s only about 750 feet deep, it does resemble the Grand Canyon in its red soil and risk of falling from sheer drops.

There are hill tribes you can visit with long necked women wearing an obscene number of rings around their necks in order to exaggerate their stature. In reality, this is possibly a detrimental self abuse that the women put themselves through in order to take advantage of tourist money, not unlike the elephant encounters also offered.

Pai is not easily accessed. Even to get there directly from Chiang Mai, you must navigate 762 curves as you climb up and down several mountain ranges separating the two places. I rented a car, but many people do it by motorbike. It might be cheaper to go by motorbike, but I think it’s a lot more stressful because your risk of hurting yourself is much higher.

So, after having capitulated to the seductive whispers of Pai, I am pleased to say that I find it to be worth it. You will be sharing it with hundreds of English speaking hedonists, but it is fairly easy to avoid them if you get out of town and plan your visits when they are all recovering from the previous night’s jungle party.