Top 3 things I don’t like about Oaxaca Mexico

I’m willing to bet that if you are surprised by that title, you’ve either never been to Oaxaca or have not been to other places I would consider “authentic” Mexico. Oaxaca lacks the vitality of other Mexican cities, is isolated in southern Mexico, and doesn’t offer a cuisine that can’t be found in other parts of Mexico. Add Oaxaca to San Miguel de Allende and Lake Chapala as destinations I would call “Mexico light”. They have their purpose and are the perfect places for your first step into Mexico beyond the resorts, but they lack the life of other Mexico destinations.

Oaxaca doesn’t feel Mexican

I don’t consider those places “real” Mexico because they are filled with art galleries, organic farmers markets, community centers, and many other things created by the retired expats who live there. They are places where you could live the rest of your life without having to learn Spanish. On my last visit to Oaxaca, I chatted with a woman who’d lived there for four years and told me she was still struggling with Spanish. That’s because, in Oaxaca, you can get away with not learning Spanish. Sure this makes for a comfortable experience as a foreigner, but you’re missing the Mexican experience by not assimilating to the place you’ve chosen to make home.

Empty Oaxaca Street, photo courtesy of Independent.co.uk

In fact, the proliferation of tourists and expats seems to have diminished Mexican culture there. Oaxaca lacks the liveliness of other Mexican cities. Typically, when you walk through a Mexican city, it is filled with Mexican families crowding the pedestrian boulevard as they snack on spice covered fruits or fried pork skins. In Oaxaca, I found myself surrounded by tourist zombies wandering aimlessly and wondering what there is to do.

The Mexican people I did interact with were not very friendly. Typically when I greet people on the street, they smile and reply. In Oaxaca they seemed surprised I had addressed them, like a stranger saying hello in New York City. I wondered if this was just a more reserved culture of southern Mexico or whether there was an animosity towards foreigners. We did see more than one sign plastered to a wall that read “Gringo is no amigo”. BTW, the name gringo comes from “Green go”, “Green” referring to American military uniforms during the 1846 US invasion of Mexico .

A little disconcerting as a foreign tourist

Despite the lack of a Mexican vibe, it is a nice destination for the first time tourist to Mexico because it is so tranquil, the thing that makes it so appealing to retirees. Everyone seems to follow the traffic laws. You can get an oat milk late and a croissant. There is a pedestrian mall that runs through the center that is lined with galleries, gift shops and restaurants that offer picture menus.

The food isn’t so unique

Food is another reason you hear that you should go to Oaxaca. While we found some healthy restaurant options that were filled with foreigners, I didn’t find the food any better than anywhere else in Mexico. In fact, both Mexico City and Puerto Vallarta have much more diversity. Oaxaca claims to be known for its mole sauce, but it was actually created in Puebla, a city to the north of it. Besides, how many variations can you have on a tortilla topped with beans, cheese, etc…?

Oaxacan Memela. Are we really seeing anything more than a tortilla topped with beans, cheese, and salsa?

Oaxaca is isolated

Puebla is also closer to Mexico City and a place I’d recommend once you’ve made your inaugural visits to Oaxaca or San Miguel, which brings up my last grievance regarding Oaxaca. It’s far from everything. From Mexico City, you are one and a half hours from most anywhere in the country, whether by plane or bus. You can get to either coast in 90 minutes. From Oaxaca, it is a punishing 3 hour winding bus ride to the coast.

Packed streets are more what I expect in Mexico

If you want to get anywhere else in Mexico from Oaxaca, you probably have to transfer through Mexico City. Our recent trip from Oaxaca to Puerto Vallarta took nine hours because we had to fly first to Mexico City and then transfer to the next flight to Puerto Vallarta, which was six hours later. From Mexico City, we could have flown directly in an hour and a half.

Salvaging our trip to Oaxaca

If you’re not the adventurous type, Oaxaca makes a comfortable introduction to Mexico, but when you’re ready for authentic Mexico, I recommend places like Mexico City, Guanajuato, and Puebla. If it’s too late, and you’ve already booked that trip to Oaxaca, let me at least offer some suggestions for how we salvaged our two week stay there.

Oaxaca Activities