From French colony to Chinese economy

Luang Prabang, pronounced Loowong Prewbong, is a time capsule preserved from when Laos was a French colony. As one of my hostel mates said, “it has the best of France without the French”. Indeed, a stroll around the town reveals wine shops, coffee houses and bakeries tucked inside charming colonial buildings.

For me, the highlight of French influence here is the croissant, a sweet treat I can rarely resist. Of course, the perfect croissant is a matter of opinion. On the train here, I had a conversation with two French people, and we argued about whether it should be soft or crispy. I’m of the opinion that your clothing should be covered in flaky pieces of crust once you’re finished.

This was my second visit to Laos, and though the country hasn’t changed much, getting around certainly has. On my visit six years ago, the Chinese were building a high speed train to connect China to Bangkok, as part of the Belt and Rail initiative. Today the two hour train trip from the capital, Vientiane, to Luang Prabang has replaced the eight hour van ride. Gliding along smooth rails at 100 mph is a monumental improvement over the winding mountain roads filled with so many potholes it felt like traveling the length of a braille encyclopedia.

I spent the first couple days visiting coffee shops and strolling the quiet streets, and no evening should pass without a visit to the night market. There is a large open plaza in the middle of town that comes to life each evening around dinner time. The center of the market is littered with dining tables and surrounded by food stalls. A walk around the perimeter exposes you to smoothies, hot pots, grilled meats, and desserts to order. Once you’ve selected your meal, you’re given a number to put on your table, where your food is delivered when ready.

Most food in Luang Prabang is made to order using fresh ingredients so you should never arrive hungry as waiting an hour to be served is not uncommon. One thing that has changed since my last visit is the quality of the food served. I was impressed by the volume of vegetables in the food and the quality overall. In fact many of us were commenting that we thought Lao food was now better than Thai food. It certainly is cheaper.

The most I’ve been able to spend at the nicest restaurant in Laos is about $12 USD, and normally I spend about $2 a meal here. It is remarkable that prices have stayed so low despite the introduction of the train. My hotel room with a private bathroom overlooking the valley is $19 a night, exorbitant compared to the $7 hostel bed.

Things to do in Luang Prabang

For those of you who want to get beyond the comforts of town, there are plenty of activities, most of them focused on visiting the area’s waterfalls and caves. It is also the jumping off point for the two day slow boat trip on the Mekong river.

Having done the river trip on my last visit, I opted to try one of the more unique tours I saw offered, working on a rice farm. I found it an ironic experience that only westerners would engage in: paying to work, but it was one of the most delightful tours I’ve ever participated in. Still, I capitulated to visiting at least one waterfall.

Despite having lived in Portland, a place that boasts over 80 waterfalls within a 60 mile range, I decided to try a visit to the most famous waterfall in Luang Prabang: Kuang Si falls. I rented a scooter and braved the 45 minute drive along rutted roads.

The worst part about the roads in Laos is that they’re inconsistent. You’ll be driving on pavement which changes to dirt for a few miles, then changes back to pavement, even on a road that dead ends. You’re left wondering, “why did they choose not to pave that one segment?” To make matters worse, a perfectly paved surface can surprise you with a pothole big enough to swallow your front wheel if you’re not paying attention, which tends to happen when you’re trying to enjoy the beautiful stone karst formations in this country.

The waterfall was surprisingly impressive. First of all, the water was an unexpected turquoise color. This had to do with the minerals suspended in it. Kuang Si falls were more of a continuous cascade, and I found a hiking trail to the right of the falls that was devoid of the crowds using the paved path to the left. I climbed all the way to the top this way, passing only two people.

The path ended at the largest of the falls, which looked artificial because the mineral deposits gave the rocks the texture of those you see in zoos or parks. Crossing the bridge at the base of the falls, I rejoined the throngs of tourists who’d been brought to the falls in the parade of mini-vans I’d passed on my way there.

Climbing back down a couple levels, I came to a pool that allowed swimming. I was impressed that they had managed to preserve so many of the falls but was also surprised at how easy it would be to lose one’s life with no safety measures in place. There was one pool that drained into an underwater hole and I had to swim aggressively to avoid getting sucked into it.

Perhaps it was these dangers that allowed me to enjoy the pool with very little company, and by the time I left, the falls had just about emptied of people. I headed back to town on my scooter but had to stop at a roadside cafe that was along the river to watch the sunset. I didn’t stay long however, as I remembered the pothole-filled road and didn’t want to compound the danger by driving it in the dark.

I was disappointed that I had booked only three days in Luang Prabang. In fact, I worried that I should have reversed my trip since I booked a week at my next destination, and as I recalled, there was very little to do in Vang Vieng. Fortunately, I would learn that Vang Vieng is not about doing but being.